For spring, Sid Neigum was all about shine, from the disco ball of a gown to the spiffy and surprisingly weighty real padlocks that could turn a black jersey blazer into a lock-in situation. (Seriously. Fortunately, a key is included).
“I like the contrast of grounding a really drapey jersey with hardware,” the designer offered. “It’s almost like it gets too pretty, so I need to add something that gives it an edge.”
By contrast, his artfully double box-pleated pieces are now made entirely of recycled ocean plastic. Those caught the light with a soft sheen, fusing statement dressing—in lime, white, or fuchsia-pink-and-red—with high packability.
Neigum also revisited his love of transparency, now replacing earlier grids of pearls with small, pointed silver studs, just to shake things up a bit. Elsewhere, a black bow of a top was sheer, structured and stud-free. The result of an experiment with AI imagery, it made a compelling case for elevating horsehair from lining material to red carpet. (“If it were red, you could use it as a gift bow on a car,” the designer quipped.)
Neigum’s fans love an artful cut-out, but this season he “got aggressive about it.” During a showroom visit, the racks ran a gamut from a wisp of a white Tension top, paired here with an oversized suit, to a body-con hot orange number with an infinity-shaped peephole, to a fully sequined dress in changeable sunset hues, anchored by one of the designer’s signature triple-loop twists.
Concise though it was, this season’s proposition will speak to Neigum’s base. As a young indie with a loyal following, he’s had his fair share of Insta-glory followed by copy woes, so he reckons that staying ahead of the game is the only way forward. Right now, he’s focusing on leveling up. It’ll be interesting to see where that leads.